Last Updated on 23rd March 2019 by Sarah and Justin
We decided to end our 13-month world trip back in the country where we truly discovered our love of travel together: Germany. We started in Freiburg im Breisgau, a small city in the Black Forest. We had visited Freiburg once before and loved for its overall relaxed vibe, its pretty location, and its food (specifically Flammkuchen). We were excited to return and our memories did not deceive us. Freiburg is indeed one of the loveliest and most enjoyable cities we’ve visited. And, as a bonus, it’s the sunniest city in Germany! We’re happy to share our recommendations for things to do in Freiburg and where to eat the best Flammkuchen.
Things to do in Freiburg
Get out into the Black Forest
Freiburg serves as a gateway to the Black Forest for many tourists. Even if you’re not fully exploring the area (we haven’t), you can still see some of what the Black Forest has to offer right in Freiburg. In the middle of the city is Schlossberg, a big hill that was once fortified. You can hike up the whole thing, but we took the Schlossbergbahn (the wonderfully-named funicular) up most of the way and then hiked a bit further to the top view point (and yes, Sarah needed her portable oxygen concentrator for that).
It was nice to walk in the forest up there, but honestly, the views are best at the level where the funicular lets you off. There you can see the entire city of Freiburg, including its beautiful cathedral, spread out right in front of you. If you want to take a longer hike, you’ll have access to many paths and trails.
After taking the funicular up, we walked down. If you do the same, you’ll find yourself right in the middle of Freiburg’s Old Town (Altstadt).
Explore the Freiburg Old Town
Want to see colorful and half-timbered buildings as you walk along cobblestone streets? Freiburg’s Old Town is the place for you! There are also two old city gates (Schwabentor and Martinstor).
The big gorgeous Freiburger Münster also deserves some attention. The Gothic cathedral has lovely pink brick and flying buttresses.
During the summer, Münsterplatz is bustling with a great green market. And during the holidays, you can enjoy some Glühwein at their Christmas Market.
Venture further afield
During our first visit to Freiburg, we mainly stuck to the Old Town. This year, we had more time and had to do mundane, long-term travel things like laundry, so got to explore the non-touristic parts of the city a bit further. Freiburg is a university town, and we found some interesting looking buildings in that area of the city.
We’d also recommend going back near the Freiburg train station, to see this scenic view of the blue Wiwilibrücke against a backdrop of mountains. The bridge is a popular place to have a sit, and even though it’s not as precarious as it might look from afar, we weren’t that adventurous. If you cross the bridge, you’ll find Herz-Jesu-Kirche. It’s a bit kitschy looking with its bright green spires. Much different from the grand Freiburger Münster.
Enjoy the Freiburg Bächle
Freiburg is also known for its canals. These aren’t like the grand waterways you’ll find in Italy or the Netherlands, but rather narrow gutters that line most of the streets in the city. They’re called Bächle in German and locals say that if you accidentally fall in one (or more like step in one since they’re quite shallow), you’ll marry a Freiburger.
We were most recently in Freiburg in June and one of the things people like to do most there in the summer is sit with their feet in the Bächle. You can take your shoes off and cool your feet in the Bächle that have running water, or do like we did, and just use the dry ones as a resting spot. But whichever you choose, definitely bring a beer or a picnic.
Don’t miss the crocodile of Freiburg
Okay, so there is one larger canal in Freiburg, the Gewerbekanal. Perpetually swimming in the canal is a crocodile. We quite like him (and the German sense of humor in general). And the canal itself is quite pretty as well.
Where to eat Flammkuchen in Freiburg
Flammkuchen is one of our favorite foods. We first discovered it in its French form – tarte flambée – on our honeymoon in Strasbourg. Freiburg is right across the border from the Alsatian region of France, so shares in this culinary delight. Flammkuchen is somewhat like extremely thin crust pizza, but the dough is much thinner and much lighter. The classic recipe is a crème fraîche base topped with onions, bacon, and cheese.
In Freiburg, there are many places to get Flammkuchen, and many different varieties. You can even make your own Flammkuchen (and enjoy a great selection of beer) at the very popular pub, Schlappen.
Or eat a slightly fancier version at Der Kaiser, which is about a 15-minute walk outside the touristic center.
Where to drink the best beer in Germany: Hausbrauerei Feierling
As is evident on this blog, we are beer lovers. And we’ve tasted a lot of beer in Germany. We can say with confidence that the best beer we’ve had in Germany is in Freiburg at Hausbrauerei Feierling. The beer to have at Feierling is their unfiltered pilsner. It’s perfectly balanced, not too heavy, and quite refreshing. Hausbrauerei Feierling has an indoor bar/restaurant open year-round and an outdoor beer garden open when the weather is warm enough. It’s the most popular place to get beer in the city so come early!
Prost!
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Makes me want to go!
Great photos! I’ve never been but now I want to haha!
Totally adding this to my list of places to visit in Europe! Thank you!
Makes me so happy to see when people explore other places than Munich, Berlin and Hamburg. I think Freiburg is absolutely lovely and I really love a good Flammkuchen (luckily my Mum makes amazing one!).
Oh wow I’m jealous! Would love a real home-cooked Flammkuchen. Even though it’s a specialty of the region, we have seen it more and more all over the country (and Europe!) as the years go by. We love Germany so much and have tried to see smaller, less visited spots.
Super useful! We just moved to Budapest for a few months so we can explore Europe by car. This post is exactly what we needed to add to our itinerary! Thank you very much
Oh wow! I would love to spend more time in Budapest… only visited for a few days several years ago. It’s such a gorgeous, interesting, delicious city.
I visited Freiburg this past summer and absolutely loved the city. I’m lucky that my sister will be studying abroad there in September (so lots more excuses to go visit!)
You know, Germany always surprises me for some reason. I visited a few years ago, and really didn’t expect it to be so beautiful. We didn’t get to Freiburg that time, but it looks lovely there.
Totally agree. We’ve been to many cities and towns in Germany and never cease to be surprised by its differences and loveliness.
Prost! Looks beautiful (and delicious). Adding this to the Germany bucket list!
Was looking at your pics and thinking how similar Freiburg looks to Graz in Austria. Just did a google search and found out they’re both eco-cities. Adding Freiburg to my bucket list now. And that Flammkuchen looks absolutely droolworthy. Gonna go whip some homemade version up right now 😉
Oh that’s cool! We really want to go to Graz. When we were on a safari in Botswana years ago, we met a couple who lives there and have always wanted to make a trip. It looks like such a great place.
What a beautiful fairytale place! That food looked incredible!
I am truly in love with Germany. The people are so nice and the charm of the building and streets is just amazing. Thank you for adding another German city to my must see list 🙂
Us too! We love the country so much! Freiburg is definitely one of the lovelier little places to visit.
This city is sooo charming <3
I’ve always wanted to go here! Love visiting the places in Germany that most don’t make it to
I have heard many good things about Freiburg from my friends who have visited this city but wow, your photos are so pretty and so make me want to visit myself. I love the views over the city from the top of the hill.
Thank you! And yes, the Schlossberg is a must-see on a visit to Freiburg!
Oh my your photos are so beautiful!! I’m hoping to make it out to Germany this year and this place just got on the list!
Freiburg looks so pretty! I haven’t spent enough time in Germany, and I definitely need to change that. It’s always so picturesque!
I honestly never heard of this place before! It looks beautiful!
Love your blog, was in Freiburg again last week, love it, but staying in the old town. Found the crocodile quite by accident. Can’t wait for another visit, as this was my first summer visit. In December it DOES get cold. X
P
Thanks for letting us know! Freiburg is such a great city. That cute croc is easy to miss. We love Germany in December but it was nice to enjoy some different weather too.
Love your post. We are going to Friburgo in April with my daughter (who is studying at the University of Darmstand) and my husband… your photos an tips where really helpfull…love your pictures….love your attitude…
Ah thank you! You will have a great trip – Freiburg is wonderful!
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